At Civil Eats, nutrition policy reformer Andy Bellatti included a kind word for Food Policy in the United States: An Introduction (Routledge/Earthscan) as part of his year-end review for 2013.

Let’s wrap up this look back at 2013 by remembering just a small selection of the many great books that saw the light of day. When it came to an inside look at the world of processed foods, two journalists masterfully pulled back the curtain: Melanie Warner in Pandora’s Lunchbox and Michael Moss in Salt Sugar Fat. Food politics were front and center in Dr. Gyorgy Scrinis’–a lecturer in food and nutrition politics and policy in the Department of Agriculture and Food Systems in the Melbourne School of Land and Environmen–Nutritionism, and literally illustrated in Marion Nestle’s Eat, Drink, Vote.

The plight of restaurant workers was well-detailed in Saru Jayamaran’s Behind the Kitchen Door, while New York Times writer Mark Bittman made a solid case for eating a plant-based diet before 6 PM in VB6. In the textbook realm, Parke Wilde, Associate Professor at Tufts’ Friedman School of Nutrition Science and Policy, released Food Policy in the United States: An Introduction to much acclaim from his peers.

Okay, 2014, now it’s your turn. Impress us and give the “good food” movement something to cheer about, please!

U.S. cranberry policy

Even the cranberries on Christmas tree chains have a U.S. food policy story to accompany them. I enjoyed speaking to David Gura for his Christmas Eve Marketplace Morning Report story this morning:

The Congressional Cranberry Caucus -- yes, such a thing exists -- asked the Department of Agriculture to add cranberries to what’s called the “USDA Foods Available List.” These are “foods that are available for schools to purchase as part of their commodity feeding programs,” says Scott Soares, the head of the Cranberry Marketing Committee.

These are the kinds of fruits and vegetables the federal government buys for school meals programs.

“When the National School Lunch Program started in 1946, it was very explicitly half about helping children and half about commodity disposal,” says Parke Wilde, who teaches nutrition at Tufts.

These days, Wilde says, that balance has shifted; now it is more about nutrition goals.

Chestnut and Celery Root Soup Recipe

My CSA or community supported agriculture box of produce from Eatwell Farms challenges me with every delivery this season. Bok choy? Cabbage? Celery root? Sure I have a recipe or two for each of those, but week after week and I get bored and need to find something new. As much as I love celery root salad and mash I think I've discovered a recipe I like even better, Chestnut and Celery Root Soup. It would be perfect to serve on Christmas or on New Year's Eve. 

This is the epitome of a shortcut recipe with few ingredients and a reliance on a couple of convenience items namely roasted, peeled and vacuum packed chestnuts I find at Trader Joe's and canned chicken broth. I've mentioned it before, but when I don't have homemade chicken broth, I find Swanson's to be the next best thing. The prep for this soup takes more time than the cooking and it's just a matter of peeling, slicing and dicing onions, celery root and an apple pear. 

Chestnut and Celery Root Soup is really very elegant and rich despite the fact that it has no cream in it. I took my inspiration from a Daniel Boulud recipe I found on Dorie Greenspan's blog, In the Kitchen and on the Road with Dorie Greenspan. That recipe is much more of a chef recipe than mine, but trust me, mine is delicious! It has lots of depth and  a nice balance of sweetness and earthy flavors. 

Chestnut and Celery Root Soup

Makes 4 servings

Ingredients

1 Tablespoon unsalted butter

1 Tablespoon oil

1 small onion, peeled and sliced thinly 

1 apple pear (you could use an apple or a pear if you prefer), peeled and diced

1 celery root, peeled and diced 

1 14.5 ounce can chicken broth or homemade

1/2 cup cooked and peeled chestnuts

1/2 teaspoon kosher salt

Nutmeg

Cream or sour cream, optional for garnish

Instructions

Heat the butter and oil in a saucepan. When the butter melts, add the onion. Cook gently for 5 minutes or until soft, then ad the pear and celery root and cook for another 5 minutes. Add the chicken broth, then fill the can with water and add that as well. Simmer the soup for 10 minutes or until the celery root is very tender. 

Add the chestnuts to the soup and puree in the blender in batches until creamy. Season with salt and add a pinch of freshly ground nutmeg. Serve with a swirl of sour cream or cream and a few bits of chestnut if desired. 

Enjoy! 

Christmas Cakes & Drink Like a Kiwi and more

My latest stories on Recipe.com and 7x7.com

• 

  Holiday Quick Breads And Cakes: Easy Does It

  Fancy Christmas cakes are best left to professional bakers, except for those rare read more
  
  

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    Easy Salads & Desserts With Winter Citrus Fruit

    Much as I love those little juicy citrus fruits — clementines, mandarins and read more

The America's Cup is over, but our love affair with New Zealand is far from finished.

Read more >

Stuart Brioza chef owner of State Bird Provisions, which won the James Beard award for Best New Restaurant, was a presenter at the CIA Worlds of Flavor conference earlier this month. We sat down to talk to him about one of the themes of the conference, creativity. 

Read more >

Cool Gifts for Cooks 2013

Here are my picks for things that cooks will find particularly useful:

AnySharp bills itself at the world's best knife sharpener. I'd say it has the world's best knife sharpening video ever. I can't say if it's the best, but it is definitely the smallest, most convenient and easy to use sharpener. It uses a powerful suction cup to keep it in place and lets you sharpen serrated knives as well as scissors. The Pro model is $26.97 on Amazon

I have gone through more kitchen shears than I can count. They just don't seem to hold up very well. But so far I am having great success with the Smart Sizzors (from the makers of the AnySharp) They have lots of nifty features that allow you to open bottles, crack nuts or even crush garlic. Mainly I like the feel of them and how well they work on poultry. $20 on Amazon. 

Once you become a customer of Thermoworks, you may find you want a little bit of everything in their product line. I have been using and abusing the Thermapen for months and it is a trooper. It's my favorite instant read thermometer of all times. It is splash proof, shuts off automatically and easy to use and clean. Expensive, but awesome. $96.

Another item I got a chance to test from Thermoworks is the ChefAlarm with high temp cooking probe. This does not have a remote, like the older model I had from another manufacturer, but it is much better quality and has a loud alarm when it reaches temperature. It also has a second probe for sous vide if you need that. It's designed for commercial kitchens. $59.00

ProCook cast iron cookware. I wrote about this earlier in the year and for anyone who wants to invest in a piece, the prices are simply unbeatable and the styling very attractive. I use my cast iron cookware for sautéing, braising, frying, baking, roasting--you name it. I always leave a piece on the stove because I use it so often. I love that you can use it on the stove or in the oven. It's also great for serving because it holds the heat so well. You can buy a set or just one piece. Right now an 8 inch 3.1 inch round casserole is $50 and there's a additional 20% off coupon if you use the code Extra20 and free shipping! You simply won't find cast iron cookware at a better price than that. $40 with discount

Berry Breeze is a very practical gift. Instead of placing a box of baking soda in your refrigerator, the Berry Breeze uses activated oxygen to help keep food fresher much longer. It's battery operated and takes up very little space. I definitely have noticed a difference since I started using it. Produce stays fresher longer and there is no odor. $49.95 

Last but not least, in the practical but also fun category, check out these great SealedWithaCase iPhone cases available on Etsy that are not only very real looking, but brilliantly mirror the shape of real-life items including sushi, chocolates, matzah, pop-tart and a TV dinner. I'm torn between the ice cream sandwich and the tin of sardines! $17.99 each

Disclaimer: I received some of these items as review samples. I was not paid to write this or any other post, however this post does include some affiliate links. 

Eggnog Product Taste Test

The last time I made eggnog was in college. It was a recipe from one of the first cookbooks I ever owned, the Joy of Cooking, and it involved whipped egg whites and heavy cream, lots of sugar and brandy. It was voluminous, fluffy and delicious but a fair amount of work and it served an army. 

When the holidays roll around, I'm always tempted, but often disappointed by the eggnog available at the supermarket. This year I was sent a sample of eggnog from Organic Valley and was surprised by how good it was. It wasn't fluffy, but it was rich and creamy and it didn't have any strange flavors or weird texture. I wanted to see if other eggnogs were equally as good. Thanks to a connection at Whole Foods, the next thing I knew a handful of local food writers and bloggers were sitting around a table tasting eggnogs and also some desserts, cheeses (Uniekaas truffled gouda, oh la la!) a delectable baked spiral sliced Wellshire ham and wine for good measure (more about that later). 

Here are the results:

Califia Farms Holiday Nog (Almond milk): $3.99/48 oz

This is apparently a very popular eggnog this year, but our tasters didn't think much of it. It was a little bland and the texture was odd. Perhaps vegans like it? 

So Delicious Dairy-Free Nog (coconut milk): $2.99/quart, Non-GMO Project Verified

This was the most surprising eggnog, because none of us expected it to be very good. And yet all of us liked it! It was rich, had nice spice flavor and no artificial notes. BEST NON-DAIRY

Clover Stornetta Egg Nog: $3.99/quart or $6.49/half gallon

This was way too sweet. Not recommended. 

Organic Valley Eggnog: on sale at Whole Foods ‘til 1/1 for $3.99/quart (regular $4.99/quart). Organic.

Hand's down, the favorite among all the tasters. Really rich, the freshest and cleanest tasting of all the eggnogs and reasonably priced, especially considering the quality. It had a homemade taste and just the right notes of vanilla and nutmeg. WINNER

Traderspoint Creamery Eggnog: $7.49/quart. Organic, grassfed

We hoped this would be something special, but the spicing was too heavy and the texture not very creamy. 

Straus Family Creamery: $6.49/quart, Organic, Non-GMO Project Verified

A solid though pricey choice, it just wasn't nearly as good as the Organic Valley nog. 

RUNNER UP 

A big thank you to Whole Foods for hosting our little tasting party, Organic Valley for sending me a sample, and to my pals on the tasting panel. 

More? 
Check out Sean's review and Molly's review

Americana Culinary Roots

Most cookbooks focus on what's new, but not all of them. And there are definitely some advantages to looking back. These books are all about American cooking, but each takes a closer look at our culinary history and regional differences. 

Inside the California Food Revolution is an amazing book that details the "thirty years that changed our culinary consciousness." It WAS a revolution that took place in California, but truly the effects were felt all across the country. Joyce Goldstein was there, a successful restaurateur and chef as well as food writer and so her connections and knowledge of the time make this book really stand out. She tells the stories of the people who shaped what and how we eat in the crucial era from 1970 until 2000. Her admiration for the pioneers of the time comes through and her engaging style make this a must read. No recipes are in the book, but a number of menus that help document the time. 

A Century of Restaurants is another definite "keeper" because it combines food, history and travel. It must have been a very enjoyable book to research and write, because it catalogues stories and recipes from one hundred of America's most historic and successful restaurants. It's just good fun to look up iconic restaurants and read about them and see a recipe. For California the book includes Philippe the Original in Los Angeles, Duarte's Tavern in Pescadero. The Tadich Grill in San Francisco and Fenton's Creamery in Oakland. If you are planning a trip, it's a perfect book to reference before you go. Some of my favorite old time places are here such as Durgin Park and The Union Oyster House in Boston, Commander's Palace in New Orleans and Ferrara in New York. It's wonderfully researched and well written. 

CookingLight Lighten Up, America! Is a fun book of regional specialties, all given something of a makeover. The book has fresh favorites like Brussels Sprouts with Bacon and classics like Lobster Rolls, all with tips on how to lighten up the recipe without sacrificing flavor. The book also shares how some dishes became classics. You might be surprised to find things like Grilled Jalapeño Poppers and Pigs in a Blanket, but they are there. They've even updated Chicken Marbella from the classic Silver Palate Cookbook! I particularly like the pages on hot dogs, which show how they are regionalized from Hawaii to Chicago. The book has tons of photos, of dishes but also restaurants and cookbooks, ingredients and home cooks.

The Way We Ate calls upon one hundred chefs and food writers to share recipes they associate with a specific year or in some cases decade in American cooking, between 1900 until 2000. The connection of the recipe to the year may seem like a stretch but you can't argue with the results. You will want to try Michael White's Polenta con Ragu di Salsiccia or Ben Polinger's Raspberry-Cured Salmon with Salmon Tartare, Ginger and Meyer Lemon. I was a little dismayed at what seems like recipes only from New York based chefs and food writers. It would have been nice to have seen more contributors from beyond the 212 area code.


Not a cookbook at all, but a history book. Repast, Dining out at the Dawn of the New American Century, 1900-1910 shares menus, photographs and the stories of the day as they pertain to the history and culture of cuisine. From the tenements of Chinatown to the stately hotels and presidential dinners, it's detailed with lots of anecdotes and stories you probably haven't heard before. Learn about early tea rooms where ladies dined and the precursors to fast food restaurants. Or how wealthy magnates threw lavish dinner parties transforming dining rooms and hotel ballrooms into farm yards, goldmines and miniature Versailles gardens. It's definitely for the history buff.

Disclaimer: these books were provided to me as review copies and this post includes affiliate links.

A debate in NYC over soda policy

Heritage Radio Network has posted in full a debate Thursday night about the NYC soda policy proposals.

The debate had four participants:

• I spoke gently in favor of New York City's effort to experiment with moderate policies to change the environment in which sugar sweetened beverages are marketed and sold.  I suggested that the Board of Health's proposed limit on sweetened beverage container sizes was not as radical as it has been portrayed. My 2-minute opening statement begins at 17:25.
• Lisa Young, an author and adjunct professor at New York University, spoke strongly in favor of the proposal, using cups of various sizes as props to buttress her points.
• J. Justin Wilson trashed the proposal on libertarian and free-market grounds.  Wilson represents the Center for Consumer Freedom, an industry-funded organization that runs ads calling NYC Mayor Michael Bloomberg a nutrition nanny.
• Joel Berg directs the New York City Coalition Against Hunger.  He appealed strongly for broader policies to address U.S. poverty and expressed his organization's intention to neither endorse nor oppose the beverage size limitation proposal.  Then, Berg livened the debate by launching into an enjoyably vivid and highly critical analysis of such paternalistic policies.

The event was organized by the Museum of Food and Drink (MOFAD) and hosted by the New York City Food Policy Center at Hunter College.

Sweet Dreams: Movie Review

What brings joy? Dancing, drumming, ice cream? Yes, yes, yes! Sweet Dreams is the story of a group of women in Rwanda who come together first breaking barriers as drummers, and then in a cooperative where they make and sell ice cream. 

The documentary juxtaposes the personal stories of the women, who have suffered so much as widows, orphans and children of some the murderous perpetrators during the genocide in their country, with the story of their journey forward, trying to find meaning, reconciliation and joy again--all in a country where there is no ice cream. And so the Sweet Dreams are for the future, a future you can actually taste. 

It's impossible not to be moved by these women, and to admire their resilience, creative artistry, hard work and hopes for the future. Can the land of "milk and honey" find redemption? That's the real question because this is not just the story of a group of women, but the story of Rwanda. Their path is not without drama and setbacks, but ultimately it's a story of triumph and an inspiring one that will make you believe in the power of the human spirit.   At 84 minutes it's a tightly edited gripping film and every scene counts. 

Sweet Dreams has frequently been an audience favorite at film festivals. It's opens tonight in the Bay Area, though there are multiple showings, only one per theater will feature the filmmakers and stars of the film. Don't miss it! 

Opera Plaza in San Francisco (shows for one week)

• Fri 12/6, early eve 7:00 pm show– Q&A with Rob & Lisa Fruchtman and Kiki Katese, founder of Ingoma Nshya with Alexis Miesen of Blue Marble Ice Cream. 

Opera Plaza

601 Van Ness

San Francisco, CA 94102

(415) 267-4893

Clay Theater in San Francisco

• Sat, 12/7, 1:30 pm show– Q&A with Rob & Lisa Fruchtman and Kiki Katese, founder of Ingoma Nshya PLUS Special live drumming performance by The Ingoma Nshya drummers featured in the film:Ingabire Rose, Mujawayezu Therese, Uwintiji Clementine, Uwamariya Clementine

Clay Theater

2261 Fillmore Street

San Francisco

(415) 561-9921

Shattuck in Berkeley (shows for one week)

• Sat, 12/7, 7:10 pm– Q&A with Rob & Lisa Fruchtman and Kiki Katese, founder of Ingoma Nshya PLUS Special live drumming performance by The Ingoma Nshya drummers featured in the film: Ingabire Rose, Mujawayezu Therese, Uwintiji Clementine, Uwamariya Clementine

Shattuck

2086 Allston Way

Berkeley

(510) 845-7300

Christopher B. Smith Rafael Film Center in San Rafael

• Sun, 12/8, 7pm show – Q&A with Rob & Lisa Fruchtman and Kiki Katese, founder of Ingoma Nshya PLUS Special live drumming performance by The Ingoma Nshya drummers featured in the film: Ingabire Rose, Mujawayezu Therese, Uwintiji Clementine, Uwamariya Clementine

Christopher B. Smith Rafael Film Center

1118 4th Street

San Rafael

(415) 454-1222

Christmas, Italian Style

Italians really know how to celebrate Christmas, called Natale in Italian. It's not about tacky decorations or shopping frenzy, if there is any excess, it's of delicious food, well wishes and love for family. The traditional celebration of "La Befana" for the epiphany, Christmas eve midnight mass and multi course meals with lots of special dishes are all wonderful, but it's the "fare gli auguri" that I appreciate most about Natale. 

Like so many concepts in Italian auguri which is translated as "best wishes" is a multilayered and complex concept and almost impossible to fully translate into English, and it has significant religious and moral dimension. And I promise if you spend time with Italians around the holidays,  you will experience it. My friend Valeria describes it much better than I possibly could. 

"Currently auguri is used for every good wish, from a birthday to a degree to a wedding. But I think that Christmas "auguri" are special because it is the end of the year and we all pause to take a look at the year passed and start thinking about the next one, so it is a time for reflection and balance. We usually are grateful for the good things we have and wish to improve the not so good ones, so auguri is a wish to improve and do better, but it is not referred to material wealth alone, it is in general a wish for improvement and happiness." 

Really, what could be better than that? But it has to be experienced. Short of going to Italy for the holiday, I encourage you to attend some of the Italian events in the Bay Area where you can enjoy a bit of this very Italian, true spirit of Christmas.

Mercato di Natale 
December 7 & 8 from 10 am - 6 pm at Fort Mason 

Germans aren't the only ones with Christmas markets! This Italian Christmas market takes place this Saturday and Sunday December 7 & 8 from 10 am - 6 pm at the Museo Italo-Americano at Fort Mason Center Building C. There will be artisanal Italian foods, handmade jewelry, accessories, craft items and more. I hope to see you there! 

Festa dei Dolci Italiani 
December 12th, 7 pm at Fort Mason tickets $35

This annual holiday event at the Museo Italo Americano is hosted by the Museo Auxiliary. Wine, prosecco, cheese and fabulous sweet and savory treats prepared by Auxiliary members will be served. RSVP to 415.673.2200 or email for an invitation. 

An Italian Holiday Dinner  
December 19th, 6:30 pm at Cavallo Point tickets $95

Learn to make Casunziei all'Ampezzana (red beet tortelli with brown butter and poppy seeds)

Tagliatelle al Cacao con Speck e Panna (cocoa tagliatelle with smoked ham and cream) and Lasagna alla Bolognese (classic bolognese lasagna)

I highly recommend Viola Buitoni's classes. I can't imagine a better Christmas present for yourself or someone you love. I finally got to take one and it was even better than I could have imagined. Viola is from a family famous in Italy and the world for both pasta (yes, that Buitoni) and Perugina chocolates. While the family no longer runs either of those companies, Viola's firsthand knowledge and her warm and encouraging manner will inspire you to tackle any Italian cooking project with confidence. Her classes virtually always sell out, so sign up for updates from her blog so you will know as soon as classes are announced.  Her pasta and polenta classes in January still have a few spaces at 18 Reasons (check the schedule for more details). 

Cran Raspberry Crumb Bars Recipe & $100 Giveaway!

November means the arrival of cooler weather, and the beginning of the holiday season. Cranberries play a starring role in holiday fare, in part because their season is so fleeting. But raspberries, which grow practically year round here in California make for attractive co-stars (check out their availability on the Driscoll's calendar). With this in mind, I set out to make a jam bar that would highlight both fresh berries.

Tangy and buttery my Cran Raspberry Crumb Bars are the result of a happy accident because I let the food processor run a little too long. Instead of chopping the nuts, I pulsed the almonds along with the sugar until they were completely pulverized. Oops! But all is well that ends well. Perhaps jam bars are popular because they are hard to mess up? 

Cran Raspberry Crumb Bars would be perfect for a holiday cookie party or to give as a gift. The bottom of the bars is basically almond shortbread and the filling is a very lightly sweetened combination of the fresh cranberries and raspberries. The organic raspberries I used were grown in the US and provided courtesy of Driscoll's. They balanced out the strong sour flavor of the fresh cranberries. 

Driscoll's offers lots of recipes for using berries and a system for identifying where berries were grown. Look for the code on the bottom of the clam shell package and enter the number at mydriscolls.com. Now through December 31st Driscoll's is running a Made with Love holiday sweepstakes where you can win a bright red Kitchenaid stand mixer and berries for a year  or berries for a year. 

I am also offering one lucky reader $100 in Driscoll's coupons to use on berries all year long! Simply leave a comment telling me your favorite berry idea for the holidays and I will choose a winner on December 10th. One entry per person and you must leave your email address and have a US mailing address to win. Only I will see your email address. 

Cran Raspberry Crumb Bars

Makes 25 bar cookies

Ingredients

Dough

1 cup blanched almonds (whole, sliced or slivered)

1 cup sugar

1 cup unsalted butter, softened

1 egg

1/4 teaspoon almond extract 

2 1/4 cups all-purpose flour

Filling

1 cup cranberries

6 ounce Driscoll's fresh raspberries

1/4 cup sugar

Instructions 

Preheat oven to 350 degrees. Chop the cranberries or pulse them about 20 times in a food processor. Combine the cranberries, raspberries and sugar in a small saucepan and gently cook for 5 minutes, mashing the berries with a wooden spoon or spatula. Set aside and let cool.

Line a 9-inch square baking pan with parchment paper, extending it over the edges. 

Pulse the almonds and sugar in a food processor. Transfer sugar mixture to a large mixing bowl. Cream the sugar and nut mixture with the butter until creamy. Mix in the egg and almond extract. Add the flour and stir until a crumbly dough forms.  Reserve 1 1/2 cups of the dough; set aside.

Press rest of the dough on bottom of the prepared baking pan. Spread filling to within 1/2 inch of edge. Crumble reserved dough over the top of the pan. Bake 35 - 40 minutes or until lightly browned. Cool completely on a rack then use the parchment to lift  out of the pan and cut into bars. 

Enjoy! 

Disclaimer: Driscoll's provided me with coupons for myself and the giveaway. They did not compensate me financially for this or any other post. 

Finishing Oils

There are cooking oils, and then there are finishing oils. Finishing oils are used as a condiment, to finish a dish. They add flavor and texture and generally a little goes a long way. Use finishing oils on salads, pasta, pesto, vegetables and grilled meats. Some finishing oils can also be used in cooking or baking, but that's not their primary use. The less heat they are exposed to, the more nutritional value and the more you will be able to enjoy their flavor.


The roasted nut and seed oils from La Tourangelle are made from local ingredients, pressed in a traditional French oil mill. They are particularly great for salad dressings. If you are using pistachios, hazelnuts or walnuts, adding a splash of these roasted nut oils really intensifies the flavor. Because they are roasted, they have a natural sweetness to them. But they are very delicate and need to be stored in a cool dark place. You can also use them in baked goods, especially nut cakes and tossed with pasta. My favorite is the roasted pistachio. La Tourangelle offers plenty of recipes online.


This past Summer I was sent samples of 
Stoger Oils--tomato seed, chili seed and organic pumpkin seed oil. They are very intense, and really complement the raw or cooked flavors of tomatoes, chili and winter squash. They are not just infused, but made from the actual seeds of the fruits and vegetables. I liked the pumpkin seed oil best (it's also the least expensive), and used it in a butternut squash filling for an appetizer. Stoger recommends using the pumpkin seed oil on ice cream too! It has a rich warm flavor with a hint of sweetness. The tomato oil definitely reminds me of the smell of tomatoes cooked in olive oil.



If you're interested in local oils, you need to check out Round Pond Estate. In addition to making a reasonably priced Rutherford Cabernet, they have a beautiful garden and they not only grow olives, but press them at their own olive oil mill. They offer various opportunities for the public to visit the olive mill and experience fresh olive oil. The next “Fresh Olive Oil Day” is on December 8. Free and open to the public with a reservation (required), Fresh Olive Oil Day gives you the chance to taste different oil varieties both Spanish and Italian, before they are blended and get the freshest, purest oil available. The cost to purchase the fresh pressed oil is 12 cents/ml, with a 250ml minimum. Empty bottles will be provided by Round Pond at $4 per bottle.


Nudo offers the opportunity to "adopt" an olive tree and reap the rewards in olive oil. You choose the orchard and variety of oil tree and receive oil shipments. It's a really unique idea and just reading the different stories behind the different groves transports you. Today only, December 2, 2013, Nudo is offering $20 off your first delivery on all Adopt-an-Olive-Tree personal subscriptions (just use code CYBERNUD69), as well as 20% off their Adopt an Olive Tree gifts (with code CYBERNUD49).

You can also buy extra virgin olive oils from Nudo. I've tried their citrus oils at the Fancy Food Show and recommend them. Today only (December 2, 2013) use the code AMYCITRUS to receive 50% off the Citrus Club Box, which contains a tin each of extra virgin olive oil, zesty lemon oil, and stoneground mandarin oil. Perfect for any dish that needs some brightness.  $19 with discount code.

Or use the code AMYFLAVOR to receive 40% off the Flavor Box Set, which contains 8 tins of Nudo's freshly pressed, beautifully packaged flavored olive oils, including Extra Virgin Olive Oil, Lemon, Chili, Mandarin, Thyme, Basil, Garlic, and Mint. $60 with discount code.



Disclaimer: I received some, but not all  of these oils as review samples. I was not paid to write this post and there are no affiliate links. 

All about Parmigiano Reggiano & Parmigiano Reggiano Night

Last year I got a chance to visit a caseificio, or cheese maker where Parmigiano Reggiano is made. I had to go early in the morning so I could see the cheese being pulled from curds out of large copper vats. 

I also saw where the cheese rested, where it was bathed in a salty brine and the delicious smelling room where it was aged. And of course I got to try the cheese at various ages.

The main way to distinguish between different types of Parmigiano Reggiano is by age, 14-18 months, 24 months, which is most popular with Italian consumers and 36 months.

Generally speaking, 14-18 month Parmigiano is paler and fruitier, with notes of citrus and pineapple. 24 month Parmigiano is nuttier and more buttery. 36 month Parmigiano is drier and spicier. As it ages, the cheese develops more crunchy crystals and more intensity.

Here in the US we buy Parmigiano Reggiano grated or in chunks, but we don't usually pay much attention to the age, season it was produced or the types of cow's milk. In Parma I brought home Parmigiano Reggiano that was made from the milk of red cows or Vacche Rosse, and also some cheese made in the Summer from cows who graze at a high elevation. Recently I spoke with Nancy Radke, Director of the US information office for the Consorzio del Formaggio Parmigiano Reggiano about the different special varieties and how to best use the cheese for cooking, and here's what she told me:

"Available in the US in addition to Vacche Rosse, but with more limited distribution, is Bianca Modenese, a Parmigiano Reggiano made with the milk of the other historic breed, the White Modenese. There is one other single breed Parmigiano Reggiano, Solo La Bruna, which is made only with the milk of one of the first Alpine breeds used--the Brown Swiss. 

All of these cheeses are made with milks that have more casein. Higher casein means that longer aging is possible, which allows the cheese to develop a more complex aroma profile. The milk of these breeds is also just a bit more fatty, which makes for great mouth-feel. So when you combine great mouth-feel with complex aromas, great solubility, and a big umami persistent finish, you have the perfect eating cheese, which should be savored the way one would a fine glass of Barolo.

For all purpose cooking, grating, and shaving the 24-month is ideal. For snacking (especially for kids) or making long glorious shavings the 16- to 18-month is great, because it is the least friable and crystalline, so it has a creamier mouth-feel and won't crumble when shaved. The 36-month has the most umami flavor, friability,and solubility, so this is the cheese to grate over pasta, stir into risotto, blend into an Alfredo sauce, layer into lasagne and use in pasta fillings."

If you've ever had a hard time getting Parmigiano Reggiano to melt, now you know why!

Last year Italy was still reeling from the effects of a massive earthquake that destroyed millions of dollars worth of cheese. So the first Parmigiano-Reggiano night was a national celebration of both the cheese, which is a national treasure, and to aid the cheese makers. 

This year marks the second annual Parmigiano Reggiano Night, and it falls on Saturday, November 30th. It's a celebration of the cheese and virtual dinner party the world over. It's also a great time to learn how to taste the cheese try some Parmigiano Reggiano recipes, and get to know and appreciate the cheese. 

Family Cookbooks Roundup Review

I generally avoid reviewing "family cookbooks" because they tend to focus on food for children. Not that there's anything wrong with that, but I don't happen to have any. Happily several new cookbooks also expand the notion of family and as a result serve a much broader audience. After all, our family should include all the people we care deeply about, not just those related to us by blood.

Whenever I'm in London I end up eating at Leon. In a city with frightfully expensive food, Leon serves what they call "naturally fast food." It's healthy, quick and inspired by flavors from all around the world. They source ingredients responsibly and so it's food that makes you feel good and that you can feel good about. Truly a winning formula. The latest book from Leon (there are two others) is Leon Family & Friends. The book has lots of basic kinds of recipes for things like roast chicken and hummus but also amazing stuff like Anna Hansen's Pumpkin & MIso Cheesecake. There are also some Thai recipes and cool stuff like six ideas for "things on toast" hot chocolate five ways, four risottos and three different versions of salmon cooked in parchment. The recipes are generally easy and appealing and suit kids as well as adults. Bravo! It's a particularly great book for anyone just starting out on their own with or without kids. It's a keeper. 

The Monday Morning Cooking Club book is really my kind of book. It's written by a group of Jewish women a "sisterhood" in Sydney Australia. Their recipes are so homey and comforting. There are tinges of Eastern Europe but also intriguing Indian, Moroccan and Persian recipes too. I want in on this group that cooks and shares Israeli Couscous Soup (inspired by a recipe my dear friend Marlena Spieler), Peach Mascarpone and Raspberry Trifle, Beetroot and Chickpea Salad, Quinoa Tabbouleh, and Viennese Apricot or Plum Dumplings. Australia like the US is a country of immigrants and the book tells their stories. The only potential down side to the book is that some of the recipes use grams as a measurement, not a problem if you have a scale however. It's a keeper.

An American Family Cooks is written by James Beard Award winner Judith Choate and her family; it's the recipes her extended family cooks. "Fancy, some not-so-fancy, and some just plain everyday" is how she describes the 100 recipes. These are very solid recipes by a family of foodies. I mean, who else starts Thanksgiving with fried eggs showered in $500 worth of white truffles? The notes with each recipe are really instructive explaining lots of details about techniques or ingredients. There's lots of Americana here, but also some Mediterranean style recipes too, things like Paella, Mom's Potato Gnocchi and Pate de Campagne to go along with Nana's Chicken Pot Pie, Boston Brown Bread and Dungeness Crab as well as Soft-Shell Crab. It's a good book, but not exactly ground breaking. Keeper? Depends on your cookbook collection.

Sunday Dinners: Food, Family, and Faith from our Favorite Pastors is also a compilation of recipes, but from pastors some of whom rely on butter-flavored vegetable shortening, Velveeta and canned pie filling and others who don't. While there are three appealing Vietnamese dishes and lots of American favorites like Scalloped Potatoes and Sunday Pot Roast, many of the recipes like Slow Cooker Macaroni and Cheese and Strawberry Cake made with a cake mix, strawberry gelatin and frozen berries are frankly not my style. If you know someone who would be inspired by wonderfully written stories of pastors and how food plays a role in their life and their family, this might be a nice book for them. 

Disclaimer: I received review copies of these books and this post includes affiliate links

Last Minute Thanksgiving Tips

Thanksgiving cocktail
Ruby Sparkler

Recipes from the archive
Chutney Cheese Puffs

Brussels Aprouts with Brown Butter and Hazelnuts 

Brussels Sprouts Slaw with Apple & Walnuts

Grapefruit Radicchio Salad

Savory Roasted Pears

Curried Butternut Squash Soup

Apple Crisp

Cranberry Coffeecake

Turkey help!
Turkey Talk-Line
1-800-BUTTERBALL (288-8372)
open from 6 am until 6 pm CST

What wines go with turkey?
Beaujolais Nouveau
Pinot Noir
Cotes du Rhone
Pinot Grigio
But really, drink whatever you like!

Learn about the holiday?
Laura Schenone's Thanksgiving timeline

Top 10 Thanksgiving leftover ideas

Happy Thanksgiving everyone!

Vanilla Purr Cambric Recipe

I'm a tea drinker and I love experimenting with it as an ingredient. I make hot chocolate with tea and use tea to smoke chicken. But I have to admit, I only heard the term cambric to describe tea made with milk, such as chai, at an event recently at the T-We Tea shop hosted by the California Milk Processor Board. It's an old fashioned term for a combination of tea, milk and sugar often served to children. But that doesn't mean you can't make it into something enticing for adults. 

The certified tea specialist and proprietor Christopher Coccagna made a number of wonderful drinks for Winter with tea and milk. Some of the drinks had alcohol in them and others didn't. Some used herbal teas and some used black teas. Some will definitely perk you up while others are perfect as a relaxing nightcap. There's really something for everyone, even kids and teetotalers. Check out the recipes for all kinds of luscious tea and milk drinks including Vanilla Mint Cambric, Lavender London Fog Latte and White Russian Caravan at GotMilk.

I'm not much of a bartender, but here's a recipe for a non-alchoholic cambric based drink I created, inspired by the event. I used puerh tea which has a very earthy flavor that is complemented by both vanilla and milk. The name is a play on "puerh" tea but also on the idea of milk making you purr like a cat! 

Vanilla Purr

Serves 2

1/2 cup strongly brewed puerh tea (about 1 Tablespoon for 2 minutes)

1 cup whole milk

1/2 vanilla bean

1 Tablespoon honey or more to taste

In a small saucepan, whisk together the tea, milk, and the seeds scraped from the vanilla bean, split lengthwise. Heat over low heat until steamy. Remove from heat. Strain the tea into a tea pot, and stir in the honey. Pour into two cups and serve.

Enjoy!

Disclaimer: My thanks to the California Milk Advisory Board for inviting me to the event. I was not paid to write this or any other post.