Hourglass Blueline Estate Merlot: Wine on Friday

Merlot is back! Actually, it never went away, it just fell out of favor with a lot of wine drinkers. Recently I visited Hourglass Wines in Napa and talked to owner Jeff Smith about Merlot, a wine many people think is insipid. Was it the dreaded Sideways (the movie in which the lead abhors Merlot) affect? Not according to Smith, "Sideways wasn't the problem, it was the punctuation point, at the end of the problem." And it's true, at the time of Sideways, there was a lot of lousy Merlot. 

Lately there are a lot of Merlot producers, even some very good ones, trying to market Merlot by saying things like "Merlot for Cab lovers" but Merlot should be appreciated on its own merits. If you haven't had a really great Merlot in a long time, or ever, here's what Smith says it should taste like--spicy, aromatic, with density, rich and vibrant. The holy grail? According to Smith it's richness with energy and structure. Although often blended with Merlot, Cabernet Sauvignon is darker, more tannic. Merlot is an easier drinking wine with lots of black and red fruit. Here's an easy way to think about Merlot. Think Marilyn Monroe--voluptuous, fleshy and soft, sometimes elegant.  

Hourglass acquired the lovely Blueline property in 2006, it's located in the Northeastern part of Napa Valley, two miles south of Calistoga and has  a mix of alluvial gravel, sand, and loam. On the property Hourglass grows not just Merlot but Cabernet Sauvignon, Cabernet Franc, Petit Verdot and Malbec. The 2011 Hourglass Blueline Estate Merlot has spicy and lots of fruit but also some chocolate and vanilla notes. It's silky and lush and complex in a good way. It's a pricey wine at $75 but cheaper than a "cult Cab." 

One of the other things I love about Merlot, is how easy it is to pair with food, often much easier than Cabernet Sauvignon. Of course, there is a range of Merlot from lighter styles that pair with pizza, pasta and charcuterie, to riper styles that stand up to spicier dishes too.  It's great to see a winery like Hourglass committed to making a really great Merlot. I hope other winemakers are inspired to do the same.

Disclaimer: I was a guest at Hourglass for a private event and got a chance to try the wine and meet the winemaker and owner. 

Crackers & Dips and Pretzel Making at Home

There are some things you might not consider making yourself, like pretzels and crackers, but that would be a shame. Freshly made baked goods are always a treat, especially warm pretzels. Meanwhile it's the ease of making crackers and the ability to customize them that charmed me. Last year I wrote about the book Salty Snacks, which includes recipes for crackers and pretzels, but this year there are books dedicated to each. 

So the thing to know about pretzels is, you have to dip them in an alkaline solution. Pretzel Making at Home gives instructions for using food grade lye but also for using baking soda which is a lot less intimidating. The cool thing about the book is it shows you lots of different shapes you can make--sticks, rolls, bites, tiny twists and minis. That alone makes me want to make pretzels. I didn't realize how many kinds of pretzels there are until I got this book--sweet ones, savory ones, soft, hard, you name it. 

Making crackers is ridiculously fun, in part because they are so easy to make! The hardest part is waiting for the dough to rest and rolling them as flat as you can. Some of the instructions in Crackers and Dips say roll out to 1/16 of an inch. If you have any idea how thin that is, you are one up on me. I'd just say roll them as thin as humanly possible. I started with the "everything" Flatbread Crackers and have not looked back since. I haven't made any of the recipes that require yeast yet, but I probably will soon. 

True to it's name Crackers & Dips has plenty of dip recipes. You will end up wanting to skip tortilla chips and pita chips in favor of your own homemade crackers. The savory dips run the gamut from vegan and vegetarian and to meat and fish based. Some are indulgent but others are healthy. Once you get the hang of the bean dips and pates, you may find yourself customizing those too. I've found a platter of crackers and dips can easily morph from appetizer to light meal. 

Disclaimer: My thanks to Chronicle Books for providing review copies of these books, this post does contain affiliate links. 

30% price incentive has positive impact on fruit and vegetable intake for SNAP participants

USDA's Food and Nutrition Service today released the Interim Report from the Healthy Incentives Pilot (HIP), a major study of price incentives for fruit and vegetable intake for Supplemental Nutrition Assistance Program (SNAP) participants.

This study may help to inform the national discussion about the economic environment and its influence on food choices.  Agriculture Secretary Tom Vilsack today said, "The results of the Healthy Incentives Pilot demonstrate the clear impact that promoting nutritious food choices can have on improving the healthfulness of SNAP purchases."

Here is the punchline:

Our interim results indicate that HIP participants (adults aged 16 and older) consumed one-fifth of a cup-equivalent more fruits and vegetables per day than did non-participants (ES.1). This represents a difference of 25 percent in consumption over control group members. Approximately 60 percent of the observed difference was due to a difference in consumption of vegetables and 40 percent due to a difference in consumption of fruit.

These impact estimates are statistically significant, and they are big in percentage terms, but the baseline intake for the control group is quite low, so the impact seems fairly small in terms of cup-equivalents.  There is evidence that some retailers and participants in the pilot were still in the process of learning how the incentive worked.

The pilot was implemented in Hampden County, MA.  The study used a random assignment research design.  The Interim Report is based on a pre-implementation survey and an early post-implementation survey.  A Final Report in several months will use an additional later second post-implementation survey.

The authors of the Interim Report are Susan Bartlett, Jacob Klerman, Parke Wilde, Lauren Olsho, Michelle Blocklin, Christopher Logan, and Ayesha Enver.  As one of the co-authors, I worked on this study as part of a team led by Abt Associates, with funding from USDA's Food and Nutrition Service.  I will be presenting some results from this report on August 5 in Washington, DC, at the annual meeting of the Agricultural and Applied Economics Association (AAEA).  For me, personally, the project is the most terrifically ambitious research effort to which I have ever contributed.

This pilot initiative is related to other efforts to enhance incentives for purchasing fruits and vegetables, in farmers' markets and other outlets.  Some municipalities, including Boston, have Bounty Bucks programs, and Wholesome Wave has a series of related efforts.  One cool thing about the HIP study is that it worked through the SNAP participants' Electronic Benefit Transfer (EBT) card in all sorts of participating retailers.

With declines in Ogallala Aquifer, a reflection on the politics of agricultural environmentalism

Here is an excellent, sober, persuasive, and worrisome report at Science 360 about the accelerated decline of the Ogallala Aquifer from 2011 to 2013, because of drought on the Great Plains.

 

In the summer of 2010, I drove across the country visiting farms, markets, agricultural research stations, and other food policy sites.  One of the most interesting stops was a visit with a large-scale corn farmer in southern Nebraska, who showed me the modern irrigation equipment and careful monitoring system he used in an effort to waste as little water as possible from the Ogallala Aquifer.  He argued that aquifer declines were really only a problem further south, in Kansas and Oklahoma, not in his part of Nebraska.  He said farmers have a strong economic incentive to conserve water, because of the electricity costs and other variable costs from pumping water.  I think many farmers in his situation don't want government regulation or too much attention from worried environmentalists.

At the time, I wondered if these internalized costs really provided a strong enough incentive.  The big cost of irrigation is the value of the aquifer water itself.  Without coordination among farmers, each farmer has an incentive to use too much water.  I thought at the time that environmentally aware corn farmers in Kansas and Nebraska should go a little softer in their ferocious criticism of government environmental regulations, because without these regulations their own livelihoods are in jeopardy.

Climate science includes big uncertainties, but it seems likely that global climate change is causing more frequent droughts in the Great Plains.  I hope scientifically savvy and pragmatic corn farmers who rely on the Ogallala Aquifer have the political courage to resist the temptation to ally with anti-government conservatives who flirt with climate denialism.  Even though it takes some work and some compromise, and even some tolerance for cultural differences between heartland folks and city dwellers, I think farmers have a more promising long-term future allied with the pragmatic wing of the environmental movement.

Minnesota Public Radio discusses the politics of food assistance

Julie Siple at Minnesota Public Radio last week described some of the political history of the Supplemental Nutrition Assistance Program (SNAP), including the early bi-partisan support in the days of McGovern and Dole, the 1990s era of welfare reform, the caseload increases of the Great Recession, and the peculiar acrimony of recent food stamp debates in the House of Representatives.

Mark Winne discusses SNAP reform

Long-time anti-hunger and community food security activist Mark Winne has a new essay on the Supplemental Nutrition Assistance Program (SNAP).  Winne is passionate about protecting the program from the deep cuts proposed in the House of Representatives and eloquent about the hardship SNAP participants face in these hard economic times.

And yet, Winne includes the following strident call for reform and improvement of SNAP:

Whether we have more food stamp spending or less begs the question of why such a major act of social policy that nobody, including the recipients, seems to like, continues unreformed and unevaluated. With a national poverty rate locked at 15 percent and a near-poverty rate bringing the combined numbers to well over 30 percent, food stamps provide some relief but no solutions. With overweight and obesity affecting 65 percent of the population and eclipsing hunger as America’s number one diet-related health problem, food stamps do little to encourage healthy eating and less to discourage unhealthy eating. And with high unemployment, low wage jobs, and few prospects for growth – other than big box stores and casinos – leaving the economy stuck in neutral, food stamps $70 billion in federally generated buying power helps Kraft Foods (food stamps are 1/6 of its sales), but nearly nothing to infuse local economies with new energy.

But the anti-hunger orthodoxy that SNAP is a vital part of the nation’s safety net and must never be altered goes unchallenged. Whenever an innovation is proposed, e.g. Mayor Bloomberg’s request to prohibit the use of food stamps to purchase sugary soft drinks, the program’s pit bull defenders bare their teeth threatening to rip the limbs off heretics who might modify even one of SNAP’s holy sacraments. It may be that they are in bed with Wal-Mart and others who have tragically dumbed-down American wages and whose workers are subsidized by the food stamp program, or it may be that they are riveted to the notion that they are all that stand between a modicum of food sufficiency and mass starvation. Either way, the tenaciousness of their enterprise, which opposes food stamp change at any cost, is only matched by an equally fervent brand of conservatism embodied by the Tea Party. The result: A program now more than 50 years old remains largely unchanged even though the nation that it helps feed has changed in myriad ways.

Imagine a corporation or major private institution that did not conduct research and development, kept the same product line for generations, and never engaged in strategic thinking. That enterprise would be out of business (or subsidized by the federal government).

It's something to think about.

Like Winne, I think it would be fine for USDA to use its existing authority to permit pilot innovations that would change the definition of "food" under SNAP to exclude sugar sweetened beverages such as soda. The New York City proposal was designed to appeal only to public health nutrition advocates and did not do well at building bridges with anti-hunger advocates.  Yet, I think both public interest traditions should support such a pilot.  The anti-hunger advocates say the proposal is stigmatizing, but I see no evidence that SNAP participants actually would mind.  Remember, low-income parents, just like all parents, work hard to choose healthy foods in a rough marketing environment, and they may find the restriction helpful as they discuss food and beverage choices with their children in the aisle of the grocery store.  Congress has to draw the line between "food" and "non-food" somewhere, and it makes sense for USDA to use pilot studies to help Congress figure out the best way to do so.  If the pilot finds that the proposed reform increases stigma, reduces program participation, or damages food security, the proposal should be dropped.  But, quite possibly, the opposite will happen.  Anti-hunger advocates may be stuck in the way things have always been, overlooking an opportunity that could be appealing to program participants and politically popular with the public at large.

I once interviewed Winne for this blog, shortly after he wrote his book, Closing the Food Gap.  Winne's new book is Food Rebels, Guerrilla Gardeners, and Smart Cookin’ Mamas.

Franciscan Chardonnay: Wine on Friday

Yeast is to used convert grape juice into wine, but also for flavor. At Franciscan Estate Winery they make two different Chardonnays, one specifically with wild yeast. I spoke with winemaker Janet Myers to find out more. But first, it's important to be familiar with some wine vocabulary:

Lees: The dead yeast at the bottom of the barrel, wine can absorb some of the yeasty flavor from being aged with the lees. 

Malolactic: The fermentation process when tart malic acid, naturally present in grape juice and skins is converted to softer lactic acid. In Chardonnay a by product of malolactic fermentation produces a buttery flavor and a soft mouthfeel. 

Carneros: An American Viticultural Area which includes parts of Southern Napa and Sonoma. It is relatively cool because it is closer to San Francisco Bay breezes. 

Janet, are you a fan of Chardonnay? 

I used to be tired of it; when I got here 10 years ago Chardonnay was too oaky and buttery, many were a caricature of themselves. I want oak and malolactic to complement. The barrel frames the fruit. Being here, I've made some slight changes, our Chardonnay used to be more oaky, and I've taken it to be a little softer--less toast, there's a gentler voice of the barrel. I've done that with both of the Chardonnay. We like the fruit expression here and it's where the consumer is going. 

Tell me about Franciscan Chardonnay--the Napa Valley Chardonnay and Reserve "Cuvée Sauvage" Chardonnay 

The reserve ($40) has much smaller production, versus the Napa Valley ($18) and it has has much less new oak, it is made to be fruit forward. Stylistically they are different, the reserve is in the barrel twice as long. It has a lot of Carneros fruit, it's vibrant with minerality, creamy but not buttery, there is oak to support but not to dominate. 

When did Franciscan start using wild yeast in the Cuvée Sauvage Chardonnay?

The winery started in 1987, and the winemaker at the time was interested in Burgundy and how wild yeast was used. He was the first to use wild yeast in Napa. Even our Napa Valley Chardonnay is half wild yeast fermented. Using wild yeast takes more work and it takes longer; it takes longer for it to finish. There's less yeast and it's less reliable. 

Why do you make some wine with commercial yeast and some with wild yeast?

We like the results with the commercial yeast, but we get a little more complexity with the wild yeast. The difference is not night and day but if you taste blind you will notice it. The reserve has the biggest richest fruit lots, but layered on complexity. Malolactic fermentation takes more time on the lees -- 15 months versus 7 months.

When you let the native yeast do the fermentation, the yeast that's on the bloom, there might be a dozen type of yeasts. Plus some that are native to the winery. Each gives a different flavor. They each have a  niche for alcohol tolerance so it's like a relay in that one starts, then as the alcohol rises that species might rest and another kicks in. It's luck of the draw with the yeasts in the environment and on the grapes. 

Why do you source fruit from Carneros? 

It's in the cooler part of Napa which is conducive towards natural acidity and balance. It's cooler, crisp and vibrant. Our Napa Valley Chardonnay is over half Carneros fruit, in Napa and South. I don't buy it from up valley, it's not stylistically what I want. I don't want a low acid Chardonnay.

What do you think of Chardonnay from Napa today?
I think Chardonnay is in a really good place right now, the pendulum hasn't swung too far. There's good balance, and it's very well crafted. But it's ultimately a matter of taste, so find a producer that you like.

I couldn't agree more! Thanks Janet! 

Franciscan Estate Winery is open to visitors from 10 am - 5 pm daily, go and you can try both Chardonnays. No appointments necessary. Call ahead if you wish to take part in one of their "Taste Explorations" including a wine blending session or a sensory evaluation class.

Franciscan Estate Winery
Highway 29 @ Galleron Rd
St. Helena CA
707.967.3993

Disclaimer: Franciscan sent me a sample of their Cuvee Sauvage Chardonnay 

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High ethical standards in the supplement industry

Talking Points Memo and other media have been covering the many thousands of dollars in allegedly unreported gifts from dietary supplement industry executive Jonnie Williams to Virginia Governor Bob McDonnell and 2005 Republican gubernatorial candidate Jerry Kilgore.  Star Scientific, Williams' company, markets a product called "Anatabloc" for its supposed anti-inflammatory benefits.

Records maintained by The Virginia Public Access Project show that Star Scientific gave over $250,000 in campaign contributions in Virginia between 1999 and 2011. Much of that money went to McDonnell’s gubernatorial campaign and leadership PAC between 2009 and 2011. But the top recipient of Star Scientific donations during the 12 year period was actually Kilgore’s 2005 gubernatorial campaign. Star Scientific contributed $101,462 to the Kilgore campaign between 2002 and 2005. And Williams personally chipped in another $27,323. 

The FBI is investigating gifts from Jonnie Williams to McDonnell and members of his family in the growing scandal.

The Star Scientific website includes the usual supplement industry misdirection, hinting at medicinal effects while taking care not to state these claims in plain language.  For example, a news release hints at what disease Anatabloc's supposed anti-inflammatory properties could treat: "The company also reported positive results from a study conducted by researchers at the University of Virginia Medical School investigating the effects of anatabine in an animal model of idiopathic inflammatory bowel disease, ulcerative colitis."  If the company actually claimed to treat a medical condition or disease, FDA would require the company to prove safety and efficacy in human trials.  With mere hints, the company is not obliged to prove anything in human trials.  All of this is typical for supplement company websites.

The real gem of the Star Scientific website is the lovely "Code of Ethics."  It has delightfully specific warnings against seeking to influence government officials through gifts.

When working with government agencies and officials, we must know the regulations and policies governing our conduct. What is acceptable practice in the commercial market may violate strict rules and regulations in government interactions. In all our dealings with governments, our actions must comply with applicable laws and regulations. Do not offer or provide gifts, gratuities or political contributions or discuss employment opportunities with a government official. Even paying for a business meal is prohibited by some government policies. To prevent legal problems for ourselves or the Company, and because laws differ throughout the country, you should work closely with Star's General Counsel when dealing with the government.

Perhaps Jonnie Williams and other Star Scientific executives will pull this dusty old document out of the company files and give it a second read.

Recent activities of Dietitians for Professional Integrity

Andy Bellatti last month summarized in a column for Civil Eats the recent activities of Dietitians for Professional Integrity, an initiative to encourage the leading dietetics professional association, the Academy of Nutrition and Dietetics, to distance itself more clearly from its food and beverage industry sponsors.

For years, many of my colleagues and I have voiced our discontent that the professional organization that represents us takes money from and partners with the likes of Coca-Cola, PepsiCo, McDonald’s, and Hershey’s, supposedly to foster dialogue with the industry and help Americans get healthier. In reality, Big Food gets free press for feigning concern, while going about its usual business, and the registered dietitian credential gets dragged through the mud.

“Too often I’ve lost the trust of potential clients because, despite my rigorous education in nutrition, they only see the dietetics field as corrupted by big businesses,” says Matt Ruscigno, MPH, RD, one of Dietitians for Professional Integrity’s co-founders.

Over the past four months, Dietitians for Professional Integrity has shared many statements of concern from registered dietitians on its Facebook page, and helped raise awareness of Big Food’s influence on the Academy (from the world’s largest aspartame producer helping to fund the organization’s evidence analysis team on the artificial sweetener to Coca-Cola’s Academy-approved continuing education webinars which  teach dietitians that soda is unfairly vilified).

A key point is that Dietitians for Professional Integrity is not a "nanny state" initiative.  There are good reasons why it is sometimes difficult for government agencies to take strong public interest positions on key challenges to the healthfulness of the food and beverage industry.  Government institutions in a democracy frequently must represent the mainstream of public opinion.  They explicitly must be concerned both with public health and with encouraging a thriving economy.  When government agencies push too hard or are insufficiently deferential to individual preferences in guiding people toward healthy nutritional choices, the public worries about government overreach.

Because of these constraints on government activism, it is especially important that non-profit public interest organizations such as the Academy of Nutrition and Dietetics speak clearly, boldly, and without bias on the nutrition issues of the day.  I think Bellatti and Dietitians for Professional Integrity have a good point in encouraging this private-sector nutrition organization to be more independent from its corporate sponsors.  Sometimes, the Academy should have more courage to criticize food and beverage industry products and marketing practices that really do contribute to an unhealthy nutrition environment.

American Lamb Jam 2013 San Francisco July 21

The last few years the American Lamb Board has hosted an event called the American Lamb Jam. If you're a fan of lamb (and I know ewe are) this is a great way to see what top chefs can do with lamb and how truly versatile it is. 

As a preview to the event, I got a chance to attend a lunch after a garden tour (with a bobcat sighting!) at Wente Vineyards. 

Chef Matt Greco from The Restaurant at Wente Vineyards prepared a feast starting with a range of appetizers--lamb sausages, lamb mole tamales, barbecue pulled lamb, lamb pastrami (my favorite). He even found ways to use lamb fat in a grilled panisse with braised neck, green chickpeas and gypsy peppers. 

We then sat down and had our fill of roast leg, saddle and rack of lamb. 

Some things you might not know about American lamb:

A majority of the over 82,000 sheep operations in the US are  family owned and operated.

The top 5 sheep producing states are Texas, California, Colorado, Wyoming and South Dakota.

All American Lamb is hormone free and some of it is also antibiotic free.

American lamb grazes on grasses and legumes, helping to maintain healthy and sustainable pasture land. 

On Sunday, July 21 the American Lamb Jam will take place at Golden Gate Club from 2 – 5 pm.

Competing for the titles of “Best in Show,” “People’s Choice” and “Best Leg, Breast, Shank and Shoulder,” each chef will prepare a sampling of American lamb, to be voted on by members of the media as well as attendees.

In addition to eating plenty of lamb, attendees will enjoy local wine and beer, watch lamb butchery demos, and take home lamb swag.

Participating chefs:

Dino Vazquez, Eastside West Restaurant & Bar
Larry Finn, Scala’s Bistro
Vernon Morales, Town Hall Salt House

Sophie Uong, Pican Restaurant

Adam Mali, Mandarin Oriental Brasserie S&P

Francis Hogan, Bluestem Brasserie

Matt Greco, The Restaurant at Wente Vineyards

Ben de Vries, Luella Restaurant

Mike Ransom, Jasper’s Corner Tap & Kitchen

Alicia Jenish, Grand Café

Antelmo Faria, Tacolicious

Laurance Gordon, Thirsty Bear

Charlie Ayers, Calafia Café

Kyle Itani, Hopscotch

Avery Holt, Puccini & Pinetti

Tickets are $60 for general admission. To buy tickets and for more details go to San Francisco Fans of Lamb.

A portion of the proceeds from Lamb Jam SF will benefit La Cocina‎, a non-profit organization dedicated to cultivating low income food entrepreneurs, providing affordable commercial kitchen space, industry-specific technical assistance and access to market opportunities.

For more information about the Lamb Jam or the American Lamb Board, please visit the American Lamb Board 

Disclaimer: I was a guest at the preview luncheon hosted by the American Lamb Board.

City Blossoms: urban gardens make people smile

My parents and I were inspired by our recent visit to City Blossoms near our old neighborhood in Washington, DC.  This series of urban gardens, including gardening programs for children and youth, was founded by Lola Bloom and our long-time family friend Rebecca Lemos-Otero when they were still in high school and college.

I see on the City Blossoms events page that they will host an upcoming dinner night on July 26, in partnership with Brainfood: A Recipe for Youth Development.  Brainfood is a DC food non-profit organization housed at my old childhood church, St. Stephen and the Incarnation, a pillar of community activism in the 16th Street corridor since the 1960s.

Photo: Margaret Wilde.  From l to r: Parke Wilde, Rebecca Lemos-Otero, Fernando Lemos.

An introduction to Food Policy in the United States

A second excerpt from the first chapter of Food Policy in the United States: An Introduction (Routledge/Earthscan), which was published in April.

This book offers an introduction to food policy in the United States. Food policy encompasses laws, regulations, decisions and actions by governments and other institutions that influence food production, distribution and consumption. While food policy is defined broadly, a food program is a more specific institution that provides or distributes food.

Food policy is intertwined with many of the fundamental economic and social decisions of the day. Will traditional farming in the United States disappear as an economically viable way of life? Can U.S. agriculture contribute to nourishing a growing world population without destroying the environment? What labor rights do farm workers have? Does globalization help or harm U.S. farmers and food consumers?  How can the safety of food be protected without imposing unnecessarily burdensome rules and regulations? What can be done about the epidemic of obesity and chronic disease? How can school lunches be improved? Why do some families go hungry in such a rich country?

U.S. food policy is an important topic for readers in the United States and also in other countries. The United States is the world’s largest exporter for some crops and a leading importer for others. The U.S. government position carries considerable weight in multinational policy decisions about globalization and international trade. Consumers around the world aspire to emulate some aspects of U.S. consumer culture, even as doubts arise about the nutritional merit and environmental sustainability of U.S. food consumption patterns. Some environmental constraints on U.S. agricultural production are local, but others are global. In these respects, the implications of U.S. food policy extend beyond national borders.

This book focuses on national-level food policy in the United States, but there are similarities with policy-making at other levels of government and in other institutions. Federalism refers to the division of authority between the national government and state and local governments. Policy innovations may be first attempted at the state and local level and later adopted at the federal level.

U.S. food policy is absorbing in part because it is dysfunctional. Just as other areas of politics in the United States suffer from partisanship and deep regional and cultural divisions, food policy can become mired down in bitter struggles across stagnant political lines in the sand. On topics ranging from genetically modified organisms (GMOs) to advertising that targets children, it can seem as if no policy actors have either changed their mind or persuaded an opponent in the past generation.

Faced with such challenges, it may be worthwhile to climb down from the ramparts and devote some time to reflection and study. To some extent, this book is a descendant of hefty agricultural policy textbooks such as traditionally were used in departments of agricultural economics in U.S. land-grant universities, but there are important differences. This book tackles both normative questions (about how decisions should be made) and positive questions (about how decisions actually are made) in U.S. food policy. Throughout the book, real-world policy struggles provide the contemporary hook to motivate the reader’s attention to the more specialized details of economic principles, policy analysis, institutional structures and data sources. The study of these more academic topics may pay off even for readers whose primary interest is the policy arena. The hope for this book is that these principles and data sources hold some promise for knocking loose the logjam in policy-making.

Why would anybody want to split the Farm Bill?

The Farm Bill traditionally is "omnibus" legislation, including an array of farm programs and nutrition assistance programs.  The largest Farm Bill program -- and the largest USDA program -- is the Supplemental Nutrition Assistance Program (SNAP), also known as food stamps.

The House of Representatives yesterday voted for a stand-alone Farm Bill with no food stamps.  Why on earth would they want to do that?

To make sense of this, one needs to look beyond traditional Democratic/Republican partisan politics and instead think about a four-way political cross-tabulation.

Bourbon Glazed Salmon Recipe

I like bourbon, but not whisky. I know, I know, bourbon IS whisky, but to me there's a big difference. American bourbon is smooth and sweet and has complex flavors that I enjoy in food--warm spices, fresh herbs, toasted nuts, all kinds of fruit, vanilla, coffee, toffee, chocolate, caramel and more. Whisky, is fire water. Though a fan of all whisky, Chef Michael Symon summed it up this way, "drinking whisky should be a massage, not a wax!"

Symon was in San Francisco to talk about bourbon and Knob Creek in particular, an award winning bourbon made in small batches. It's aged in very deeply charred oak barrels, and is bottled at 100 proof. It has a distinctive sweetness and big flavor. Symon told me he like the boldness of it, saying it goes great with the kinds of things he likes to cook.  "It's smoky, you can taste the age, like you can with a good salami. It has great depth of flavor, like wine and I appreciate what goes into making it--the 9 year aging process." Bourbon matches Symon's approach to cooking, "Things I like to cook take time and patience like charcuterie. Knob Creek is the charcuterie of the spirit world"

We talked a bit about using Knob Creek in cooking, he uses it in spicy glazes, with fruit like cherries, peaches or apples, and says it works equally well with pork or seafood. According to Symon, "It has complexity. I wouldn't use it with halibut but with salmon it holds up well--paired with mustard or maple, hard caramelized onions, anything sweet and smoky." 

Inspired by Michael Symon, I created this very simple but luscious recipe for salmon glazed with bourbon, maple syrup, brown sugar and soy sauce.

Bourbon Glazed Salmon 
4 servings

Ingredients

4 4-5 ounces pieces of wild salmon

2 Tablespoons bourbon, preferably Knob Creek

1 Tablespoon maple syrup
1 Tablespoon brown sugar

1 Tablespoon soy sauce
1-2 drops liquid smoke, optional

Instructions

Combine the bourbon, maple syrup, soy sauce and liquid smoke in a large zip top bag. Add the salmon to the bag and squeeze out as much air as you can, then seal it. Allow to marinate at room temperature for 15 minutes.

Preheat oven to 250 degrees. Remove salmon from the marinade, pat it dry with paper towels and sear the salmon, skin side down in a very hot pan, such as cast iron for a couple minutes or until the skin is beginning to get crisp and no longer sticking to the bottom of the pan. Transfer salmon to the oven and cook until internal temperature reaches 120 degrees, the temperature will be higher by the time it reaches the table. The time will vary depending upon the thickness of the salmon filet or steak, but a rule of thumb is 10 minutes per inch thickness. 

Enjoy!

Disclaimer: Knob Creek provided me with access to Michael Symon and a sample of their fine product.